If you wish to get the job done right, get a borescope so you can look down the barrel and actually see what's going on. Once upon a time, this involved spending considerable cash. Now there are most likely half a lots out there that are eminently economical. Without a borescope, you're working blind.
Second, you have to get rid of copper fouling. Here is a list of what I use. J Dewey nylon-coated cleaning rods.
Take your patch rod, and put three solvent spots up the bore. When it does, follow with a dry spot.
(Do not get J-B or oil or anything else on the lens of your scope. If you see no copper, or just a faint wash of copper here and there, you're done.
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If you do not have a borescope, run a solvent repair the bore and let it sit, muzzle a little down, for a couple of hours. Run another solvent spot through, and if it comes out clean, you're done, but if it has green or blue discolorations, back to the J-B.
Now, some general notes. Some barrels copper-foul much even worse than others. As a rule, the more you invest in a barrel the smoother it will be and the less it will nasty. Every barrel fouls to one degree or another. Do break-in treatments work? I question it. I have actually had a couple of cases where a barrel unexpectedly started to group as I reached completion of the process, however I've had much more burglaries that made no difference at all.
They work, often, but if you forget and leave the stuff in your bore for more than 15 minutes, they will pit your bore but good, and considering that I'm at the age where I forget stuff, I hesitate to take the chance. Likewise, they're hell on stock surfaces. With a bolt-action, go simple on the Break-Free.
Take a cue from the military, whose lives depend upon their guns going bang. They desire them immaculate. And immaculate is an excellent way to go.
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The actions to properly clean your rifle depend on whether you are doing a field removing or total disassembly. We'll cover fundamental field stripping in this article. Due to the range of rifles, total disassembly of the firearm aren't within the scope of this article. This is the most crucial action in the whole cleansing process.
, and remove any loose particles that may be found within the action, bolt, receiver, frame and chamber.
One typical myth is that more is better when it comes to lubrication of your firearm. You want to adequately lubricate where needed, but excessive can cause excessive residues, which can cause breakdowns and managing issues (slippery). Lubricating cloths are an excellent tool because they assist manage the amount of oil/lubrication being utilized in any provided area of your gun.
Soak a couple patches in this solvent and run them down the barrel. Allow it to sit, and keep in mind that removing copper can take a while.
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If the patch comes out stained blue, you still have copper in the barrel. Bill Buckley Note: There's a lot of talk about how these copper solvents can harm your bore.
What you don't want is to let any ammonia solvent dry out in there. So once you're pleased that the copper is gone, run a number of dry spots down the bore, followed by a number of spots that have been damp with a regular cleaning solvent. Run three or four dry patches down the bore to remove any staying solvent.